Repairing Cloudy, Scratched or Peeling Epoxy

Repairing Cloudy, Scratched or Peeling Epoxy

Repairing Cloudy, Scratched or Peeling Epoxy: A Step-by-step Guide.

Epoxy resin is adored because of its crystal clear appearance and the glass finish. With time however, wear and tear may set in. The older epoxy surfaces, particularly countertops, tables and floors, are usually cloudy, scratched, peeling at the edges, or dull.

The good news? Most of the times, you do not need to make a fresh start at the beginning. Such a shiny finish can be restored and the life of your epoxy project can be prolonged by the right steps of preparation, sanding and re-coating.

This tutorial shows the process of repairing and recoating old epoxy, step-by-step.

1. When Does Epoxy Need Repair?

Epoxy finishes are tough, not impossible to break. The indicators of the need to repair or recoat are:

  • Cloudy surface - usually due to UV radiation, condensation, or micro-scratches.
  • Scratches and smirrours→ due to everyday use, cleaning, or dragging objects.
  • Peeling or lifting edges - due to the bad adhesion or age.
  • Yellowing - This is a natural phenomenon of UV aging of epoxies (non-UV-stable), particularly when used naturally.

In the event that the base layer remains solid it is often possible to recoat rather than to replace the entire piece.

2. Tools & Materials You will Need

Before starting, gather:

  • Orbital sander (or sanding block to small areas)
  • Sandpaper (80, 120, 220, 320, 400 grit)
  • Microfiber cloths
  • Cleaning with acetone or isopropyl alcohol (90 and above).
  • Painter tape (to cover edges)
  • Alcohol swabs, stir sticks, gloves made of nitrile.
  • Good epoxy resin ( better with UV resistance )

3. Step-by-Step Repair Process

Step 1: Assess the Damage

Test to see whether the epoxy is merely scratched/dull or it is peeling off.

  • Unless you peel it off: You will have to sand down to the solid and well-glued layer.
  • When scratched/cloudy: A new flood coat and light sanding is normally sufficient.

Step 2: Sand the Surface

Sanding produces a rough profile in order to enable the new epoxy to adhere to the old surface.

  • Peeling or heavy damage 80 to 120 grit.
  • When it is a light scratch/cloudiness start with 220 grit.
  • Spread sand all over until it appears dull with no glossy spots.

Tip: To make them smoother, do not skip grits but add them gradually to 320-400.


Step 3: Clean Thoroughly

Sanding should be followed by wiping off the dust using vacuum or microfiber cloth.

  • Wipe with an isopropyl alcohol or acetone to clean off oils and residue.
  • Allow to dry thoroughly - dampness may result in a smoky appearance to the new coating.

Step 4: Tape & Mask

Cover edges or walls or places that you do not want resin to flow.


Step 5: Mix New Epoxy

Combine in the proportion as specified by the manufacturer (usually 2:1 or 1:1 volume). Do not stir, to form as few bubbles as possible.


Step 6: Apply the Recoat

  • Apply a base layer (a flood coat) that is approximately 1-2mm and use a notched trowel or spreader to distribute the layer in an even manner.
  • Bubbles can be eliminated with a heat gun or torch in seconds.
  • Self-leveling; epoxy can be left to be smooth.

Step 7: Curing

Allow to cure, typically 24-72 hours, product and conditions vary. exclude dust, insects and humidity.

4. Special Cases

Cloudy or Milky Epoxy

Frequently as a result of exposure to moisture. Sanding back: After sanding it off, be sure that the surface is bone-dry before repainting. Future yellowing/cloudiness can be avoided by applying a UV topcoat.

Scratched Tabletops

For light scratches only:

  • Wet-sand with 600-1000 grit.
  • polish Areskit resin polish or car polish
  • Top it off with a microfiber buffing pad.

When the scratches are deep then full flood coat is advised.

Peeling Edges

  • clean up with a sharp blade and cut off any loose epoxy.
  • Sand back the area until smooth.
  • Repeat above and clean, tape, and recoat.

5. Preventing Future Damage

Once your epoxy is repaired, do the following to protect it:

  • Heat-resistant mats or trivets (epoxy will become soft above 50-60 C).
  • Epoxy should not be cut on, it must be cut on cutting boards.
  • Wash with mild soap and water, but not harsh chemicals.
  • To offer protection against UV, a urethane topcoat can be added in case the surface receives sunlight.

6. FAQ: Repairing Old Epoxy

Q: I have old epoxy, do I have to take it all off before recoating?

No, simply take away loose, peeling, or otherwise damaged portions. In case the base layer is solid, adhesive sanding is sufficient.

Q: Is it possible to pour new epoxy on top of yellowed resin?

Yes, but there will still be the yellowing underneath. You can think about sanding over/adding pigments/tints in your recoat to cover it.

Q: To what thickness can I pour a repair coat?

Stick to thin flood coat (1-2mm) in case of recoats. To fill the gaps in places that are thicker, pour in to avoid overheating.

Q: Does I have a chance to repeat polyurethane coating rather than epoxy?

Yes,  epoxy can be refreshed with clear polyurethanes (as with water-based floor finishes) which will give it UV protection, but not as effectively as epoxy itself.

Conclusion

Epoxy can pass as glass, but you are able to repair it and restore it without replacing the entire surface as in glass.You may have a cloudy finish, or scratched, or in the process of peeling; any way the procedure is the same: sand, clean and rub.

It will cost a small preparation, and time, but your epoxy can look as new, and you save money, produce less waste, and rejuvenate your project to a new lease of life.


Don’t scrap it - restore it. Epoxy is built for the long run, as long as you know how to maintain it.

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